Ron, after seeing Steve's photos on the site and then in person I had to have some. The look and sound are both great on his, hope I have the same outcome.
Charliewood, I will post a soundclip of the three J-35's I have going. I have been shopping recording programs for my PC and it will be interesting to hear the differences between the Amborsia/WRC, Cherry/WRC and Sapele/Sitka combos. Thanks for your comments
Andy, I felt the same way and it did increase it's popularity with me. Hard zoot to find I am finding and any of you guys interested in trading or selling your stash of Pink Ambrosia Maple let me know. The necks on these are all from John Watkins at CNC. These are my first to purchase from him. This one is Maple and they look great, can't take credit for that. Thanks for your comments.
Kevin, I have a reserve set, which was just awesome in its balance in color and some really wild sides for the future as well, you will love working with it I have found that out on this one.
Richard, I use a light bulb Fox style bending maching that is less than stellar I can assure you. I was a little concerned as you can see from the figure on the sides about separation in the color grains from the maple. First, I took my sides down to .80 and sanded to near finish to around .75. I pre-heated the bender and when it got to around 250 (takes forever with bulbs) I spritzed and wrapped in foil, sandwiched between my slats and lined it up in place. I took the waist down about 1/2 way, and used my heat gun to add on low for the upper bout. My bending form (Blues Creek) allow me to move my pencil thermometer to different locations. At about 280 the wood gave to the slightest pressure so I slowly bent the upper and did the same on the lower. Once in place I let it bake for about 5 minutes, and then let it cool back to around 150 and then cranked it back up again to 280, backed shut the system down and let it cool to room temp. When I removed the sides I had only a couple of places with mild separation, no scorching and very little spring back. I placed it into my mold, squared my lengths off for a good fit. I used the LMI FCA glue, some wax paper and a clamp to lightly flood the areas of separtion covered and clamped just enough to bring the colored section of grain back flush. Be careful in clamping this Maple is pretty soft and will crush easily. Filling the little beetle holes was next and I mask taped the inside first and filled with FCA, let dry and then did the same in reverse, tapping the outside and filling from the inside. Sanded it all flush and all was well. Hope this helps when you get you new sides. Thanks for your comments
Thanks to all
Mike
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